David is from Washington, DC, in the USA. He studied Classical Literature at the University of Mary Washington in Fredericksburg, Virginia. David has traveled to Italy, Switzerland, Germany and China. His interests include playing music, painting models, cycling and reading.
A Day in Beijing: A Foreign Teacher’s Tale
It was to the distant crowing of some caged rooster that I awoke this morning. The cold, grey light to which I have grown so accustomed filtered its way through the drapes, filling my bedroom with a warm amber glow. With a practiced hand, I grabbed my mobile phone from the bedside table where it still greedily fed itself upon the electricity coursing from the wall socket to which it was tethered. The display, even though dim, clearly stated the time: 05:47. It’s no use, I thought to myself. The alarm’s going to sound soon. Might as well do it now.
A scant few moments later, I was upright and the bedding that had once cradled me, offering me warmth and security, found itself tidily arranged as it had at the origin of each morning before. On light feet, I journeyed from the dimly lit haven where, until recently, I had been sleeping, into the bright halls that made up the remainder of my home. Even at this early hour, I could hear my neighbors beginning to prepare themselves for a day’s work of home renovations. Smiling to myself, I entered the bathroom. Good thing you’re up. At least you’ll get a shower before they find some way to turn off the water.
The water burst from the white plastic shower-head like magma erupting from a volcano pent up far too long. As each bead fell against my skin, it filled me with simultaneous sensations of pain and ecstasy – as though each droplet of water acted as a penance for some unnamed sin committed in my past. Before long, the heat and exhilaration of the water shook the groggy remnants of the previous night’s revelry from my mind and I could focus on the day ahead of me. Six classes awaited me that day – three in each of two different schools, neither of which were a long way off from my current location. With body and soul refreshed, I quickly dressed myself and once more stepped into the blinding light.
Settling myself on the couch, I picked up my digital reader, which had loaded itself with the previous day’s news from various news agencies from around the world. Immediately, I became surrounded by images of violence, greed, and hate, the same way it happens each morning. The names and places may change from time to time, but the stories themselves remain ever the same. The impoverished rebels of some country I couldn’t place on a map had taken three people hostage and demand international recognition for their safe return. A domestic dispute in Hamburg had left a father imprisoned and a child motherless. An American politician elected on the platform of morality and the sanctity of marriage has admitted to fathering two children out of wedlock. Why do I continue to do this to myself, day after day, I thought shortly before I sighed in disgust before setting the reader back on the coffee table and fitting my feet into the black leather shoes that would contain them, like miniature prisons, for the remainder of the day. And then it was out the door, moving from my own sanctuary enshrining the west and its way of life. The time had come to re-enter China.
The moment I stepped out of the familiarity of my quiet apartment, I was thrust into the chaos and confusion of the world around me. A man squatted upon the ground in the hallway outside my door, holding a light-bulb in his hand. He looked at me and held up the object as if it were a relic he had captured after a week-long military campaign in the heart of some distant land. His wide, toothless, grin was infectious and I couldn’t help but give him a smile and greet him with a simple, “[Good morning.]” He returned my salutation and immediately set himself upon the task of closing his eyes and humming to himself.
Around the corner, I looked upon the lifts. One of the two lifts in the building displayed its all-to-familiar red sign stating, “[Now broken.]” The other rested upon the eighteenth floor, so I pressed the button to summon it down to me and began re-reading my plan for this morning’s lesson. I became lost in the preparation for this lesson, imagining each step and the various ways it could go. I reread the page three times before I looked up at the lift, surprised that it had not yet arrived at its destination. The display told me that it still lay on the eighteenth floor. Well, no use waiting around for it. With a quick turn, I entered the stairwell and, holding my telephone aloft to light the pitch-dark path, began with descent to the ground floor.
Upon exiting the building, I was, for the first time that morning, struck by the full glaring force of the Beijing sun. It pierced the grey haze in the clouds and couldn’t escape, all the while reflecting off of every airborne particulate it met. Quickly unlocking my bicycle, I mounted it and was soon on my way.
Roughly halfway between my home and my class, I came upon an old man making food on a road-side stall. I stopped my bike and dismounted. “[Hello. I'd like one of those,]” I say. He looks at me and smiles, responding while beginning to cook my food, “[Oh! You can speak Chinese. How long have you been in China?]” How many times have I had this conversation now? It’s got to be one that I have at least once a day. Just as he prepared my food without any thought, I conducted the conversation while paying no mind to it – allowing my mind to drift from one topic to the next until it was suddenly brought back with the all the force of a sledgehammer meeting a wall – “[Would you like hot peppers?]” I nodded my response to this question, paid the man and cycled over to the nearby park where I would eat my breakfast.
It was barely even eight o’clock and the park was swarming with life. Old men and women practiced Taijiquan on the grass-covered hills to my left, while younger couples danced to music on the courtyard to my right. Young children played in the water of the fountain immediately before me. Incredible, I thought. At home, only tourists looking to cram in as many activities into a day as they managed to shove shirts into their backpacks would come to the park this early in the morning, but yet here they are, in masses, doing what they do.
In no real length of time, I forced myself up from the bench where I had been sitting and cycled the remainder of the way to the school. I entered the building, entered the classroom, and entered the trance of teaching. Before I knew it, the third class had ended and it was time for me to leave. Saying my goodbyes to the young Chinese woman with whom I had been teaching, I once again mounted my bicycle and swiftly carried myself to a local coffee-shop.
Settling down in my usual bench, I told the young waitress that I’d like a Brazilian coffee and pulled out a stack of exams that needed corrections. Just as I had in the classroom, I entered a sort of trance while marking the papers, such that I did not notice the coffee that sat on the table in front of me until I had finished the first class. The coffee, although grown somewhat cool in its long rest upon the table’s surface, was bitter and strong. In short, it was the perfect cup. I nursed it while I continued working my way through the papers laid out before me.
It was shortly before noon before my mobile phone chirped softly from its hiding place in my pocket, indicating that a message had been received. I pulled it out and had a quick read through what it had to say. A fellow teacher had written me, “Hey, our afternoon class has been canceled. Thought you’d like to know. Cheers!” I set myself to the task of finishing the paperwork ahead of me, one which was finished before noon had even arrived. I packed up my belongings and paid the bill for my coffee.
There I was, with the rest of the day free from any responsibility and pre-established plans, save meeting up with a few of the other foreign teachers at a local bar later in the evening. This is it. You’ve got the time free. Go and see something historic. Mounting my bicycle, yet again, I quickly returned home to change into something comfortable and set out again.
Instead, I sat down upon the couch and picked up my digital reader once again and fell into Haruki Murakami’s The Wind-Up Bird Chronicle. The hours passed by until I realized that the sun had begun to finish its daily course and night had begun to draw her starless veil over the skyline of Beijing.
As the scents of my neighbors’ cooking wafted into the apartment, I realized that I had gone the day without eating anything apart from a light breakfast roughly ten hours earlier. Deciding on a course of action, I sent an SMS message out to a few of the other teachers, seeing if they wanted to join me for dinner, but all replies were negative. Wandering into the rapidly darkening kitchen, I set myself to the task of chopping vegetables and potatoes and stir-frying them.
Soon, the apartment was filled with a heavenly aroma that drove out the earlier ones originating from neighbor’s apartments. After washing up, I settled myself at the table with a beer and consumed the meal I had laid out before me. With each bite, I reminded myself of the distance between my current life and the home that I had left behind. My laptop computer lay at the other side of the table, and I opened it in a moment of homesickness. Flipping through old pictures just highlighted the life that I had given up to come here and form a new one.
Whether my past life was better or worse than the one I live now is a point for continual debate, usually based on the day’s events. The one thing on the matter that I can say with any degree of certainty is that this is an experience I’m glad I didn’t pass up.